Hidden beyond the world’s highest mountains, Mustang is one of the most remote and fascinating regions of the Himalayas.
Few places in the world feel as timeless and untouched as Mustang.
For centuries, this rugged land was part of the Kingdom of Lo, an ancient Himalayan kingdom shaped by Tibetan culture, trade, and religion.
Hidden from the outside world for generations, Upper Mustang remained largely closed to foreign visitors until the early 1990s, preserving traditions that have changed little over time.
Here, deep canyons, colorful cliffs, and high-altitude deserts stand in striking contrast to some of the highest mountains on Earth, including Dhaulagiri, Annapurna, and Nilgiri.
The weather can be harsh and unpredictable, yet these dramatic conditions often create extraordinary light that rewards photographers, nature lovers, and travellers alike.
Beyond its landscapes, Mustang is home to sacred temples, ancient monasteries, and pilgrimage sites that remain deeply important to both Buddhists and Hindus.
Yet the true soul of Mustang is found in its people, where traditional Himalayan ways of life continue to thrive in remote villages scattered across the mountains.
Following the natural gateway into Mustang, this article traces a journey from Pokhara to Lo Manthang, exploring remote villages, ancient monasteries, and some of Nepal’s most spectacular landscapes along the way.
So, prepare for long days on dusty mountain roads as we set off on an unforgettable journey through the wonders of Mustang 😅😂.
From Pokhara to the Last Himalayan Kingdom
Most travellers begin their journey to Mustang in Pokhara, Nepal’s beautiful lakeside city set on the shores of Phewa Lake.
As you leave the city behind and head north through the Kali Gandaki Valley, the Himalayas soon welcome you with breathtaking views, including the iconic Machapuchare (6,993 m), one of Nepal’s most distinctive and sacred peaks.
Although you have not yet reached Mustang, Kalika Bhagwati Temple makes a fascinating first stop along the route (as you pass by), located less than two hours north of Pokhara.
Dedicated to the Hindu goddess Kali, this important pilgrimage site attracts devotees from across Nepal who come to pray, make offerings, and seek blessings.
Surrounded by steep Himalayan valleys and visited by a constant flow of pilgrims, the temple offers a first glimpse into the deep spiritual traditions that will accompany us throughout the journey to Mustang.
Village Life in Lower Mustang
These villages, such as Ghasa, may not appear in many guidebooks, yet they offer some of the most authentic encounters along the road to Mustang.
Away from the famous monasteries and mountain viewpoints, daily life continues much as it has for generations, shaped by hard work, strong communities, and a deep connection to the land.
For many travellers, these simple moments and genuine encounters become an important part of the Mustang experience.
Thansang village
A night stop in the small village of Thasang, perched at 2,900 metres, offers spectacular Himalayan views, with the Dhaulagiri Range (8167 m) rising to the west and the Nilgiri massif (7061 m) dominating the northeastern skyline.
During the night, the clouds cleared, revealing dramatic views of the snow-covered peaks of the Dhaulagiri Himal.
Most visitors stay here for the famous sunrise light on the Dhaulagiri massif, but this time the weather had other plans, replacing golden light with a moodier Himalayan atmosphere. 😢
Beyond the spectacular Himalayan scenery, villages such as Thasang offer opportunities to meet the people who call these remote mountains home.
Generations have lived in these high valleys, preserving traditions, customs, and ways of life that remain deeply connected to the rhythms of the Himalayas.
Marpha village
Marpha is widely regarded as one of the most beautiful villages in Mustang, with its whitewashed houses, narrow alleys, and traditional architecture creating a timeless Himalayan atmosphere.
At the heart of the village, Samten Choling Monastery offers a peaceful glimpse into the Buddhist traditions that continue to shape daily life throughout the region.
Marpha is also a popular stop for Nepali visitors, many of whom enjoy dressing in traditional costumes and capturing memories against the village’s picturesque backdrop.
Beyond its famous landmarks, Marpha offers countless opportunities for photographers, travellers, and culture lovers to connect with local people
Colorful prayer flags flutter above the ancient streets, while the majestic Tilicho Peak (7,134 m) rises dramatically in the distance.
During the hay harvesting season, it is common to see villagers carrying enormous loads of hay through the narrow streets, a reminder that traditional mountain life remains very much alive in Mustang.
Jomson
Jomson village
Continuing north, you’ll eventually reach Jomsom, the main gateway to Upper Mustang and home to one of the most remote airports in Nepal, where flights are frequently delayed or cancelled due to strong winds and rapidly changing mountain weather.
For photographers, however, the airport offers a rewarding spectacle, with aircraft taking off and landing against the dramatic backdrop of the Nilgiri and Tilicho peaks.
Looking southwest, arriving and departing aircraft can also be seen threading their way through the mountains beneath the towering Dhaulagiri Range.
Most guesthouses in Jomsom feature rooftop terraces, which are highly recommended for enjoying the soft colours of morning twilight and the first light on the surrounding peaks.
From these same rooftops, you can also enjoy beautiful views of Kutsab Terenga Gumba, perched on a hill above the town, with the Dhaulagiri Himal rising in the background.
Jomsom is less about ancient streets and more about mountain adventures, with a strong trekking vibe that makes it one of the liveliest towns in Mustang.
Viewpoint above Jomson
For even better views, a rough 30-minute 4×4 drive above Jomsom leads to a viewpoint offering breathtaking, unobstructed panoramas of Nilgiri Himal and Tilicho Peak rising directly in front of you.
From the same location, the distant summits of the Dhaulagiri Range create an equally impressive spectacle, dominating the western horizon.
Looking down on the tiny town of Jomsom and the vast Kali Gandaki Valley below provides a striking reminder of the immense scale of the Himalayas.
Thini village
On the way down, a stop in the small village of Thini offers another opportunity to meet local people and experience daily life away from Mustang’s main tourist routes.
Surrounded by traditional stone houses and spectacular Himalayan scenery, the village provides countless opportunities for genuine encounters and memorable portraits.
Suspended bridge
In the same area, a beautiful suspension bridge spans the valley, facing the snow-covered peaks of Nilgiri Himal and Tilicho Peak.
Suspension bridges are an iconic feature of Nepal, connecting remote communities across deep valleys and rivers while offering some of the most spectacular mountain views in the Himalayas.
For photographers, they provide another wonderful playground, especially when a lone walker appears to be crossing through the clouds beneath the towering Himalayan peaks.
Lupra village
Lupra is a tiny and remarkably remote village hidden in a side valley northeast of Jomsom, along an alternative route of the Annapurna trekking circuit.
Surrounded by towering peaks and barren cliffs, its whitewashed houses, unpaved streets, and traditional stone architecture feel like stepping back centuries into the Himalayan past.
As elsewhere in Mustang, the warm welcome of the villagers often leads to rewarding encounters for travellers, photographers, and culture lovers alike.
What makes Lupra truly unique, however, is its connection to the ancient Bon religion, a spiritual tradition that predates Tibetan Buddhism and survives today in only a handful of places across the Himalayas.
If you are fortunate enough to find the caretaker or resident monk with the key, you may be able to visit the village temple, where centuries-old murals, statues, and sacred objects offer a fascinating glimpse into this rare spiritual heritage.
Kagbeni area
Kagbeni village
Kagbeni is one of Mustang’s most iconic villages, beautifully situated at the confluence of the Kali Gandaki and Jhong rivers, where green cultivated fields contrast dramatically with the arid Himalayan landscapes surrounding them.
For centuries, Kagbeni has served as an important trading and cultural crossroads between Nepal and Tibet, preserving much of the atmosphere of a historic frontier settlement.
The whitewashed houses, traditional architecture, and colorful details found throughout Kagbeni give the village much of its distinctive Himalayan character.
In some parts of the old village, narrow alleys pass beneath centuries-old buildings, creating a maze-like atmosphere that feels largely unchanged by time
Beyond its ancient streets, Kagbeni remains a living village where farming, livestock, and daily routines continue much as they have for generations.
For a more modern touch, and perhaps a break from the endless plates of dal bhat, you can even enjoy yak meat at the popular “Yak Donald’s” restaurant. 😂
Meanwhile, while visitors enjoy yak burgers at “Yak Donald’s”, the village’s four-legged residents continue their daily stroll through Kagbeni’s narrow lanes. 😂
Kag Chode Monastery
Perched above the ancient village, Kag Chode Monastery has been an important center of Buddhist learning and spiritual life in Kagbeni for centuries.
Encounters with young monks going about their daily routines offer a charming glimpse into the living Buddhist traditions that continue to thrive in Mustang.
From playful moments with friends to the simple act of spinning prayer wheels, monastery life blends spirituality and everyday childhood in a way that feels both timeless and deeply human.
Kagbeni viewpoints
There are many beautiful viewpoints around Kagbeni, but in my opinion, the most spectacular is found along the main road north of the village, where green cultivated fields meet the ancient settlement beneath the towering Nilgiri massif.
A little further along the road, the landscape opens up to reveal the broad Kali Gandaki riverbed, where braided channels, barren valleys, and the snow-covered peaks of Nilgiri create a truly breathtaking Himalayan panorama.
If you take the small Muktinath Sadak road climbing east of Kagbeni toward Muktinath, fertile river valleys give way to vast desert-like landscapes sculpted by wind, water, and erosion over thousands of years.
Jharkot
Road between Kagbeni and Jharkot
Continuing on the road between Kagbeni and Jharkot, you’ll soon find yourself surrounded by landscapes that seem straight out of another planet.
The region’s remarkable geology has been sculpted by millions of years of erosion, carving deep gullies, dramatic cliffs, and intricate rock formations into the ancient sediments of the Kali Gandaki Valley.
Looking back in the opposite direction, the majestic Nilgiri massif dominates the horizon, its gleaming snow-covered slopes rising dramatically above the arid landscapes of Lower Mustang.
As you continue climbing toward Jharkot, the barren landscapes gradually give way to cultivated fields, revealing how generations of villagers have shaped and transformed this harsh environment.
For photographers and travellers alike, the people encountered along the way are often just as memorable as the landscapes themselves.
And after a few more bends in the road, Jharkot suddenly emerges from the landscape, bathed in one of those magical moments of light that make Nepal so special.
Jharkot village
Perched on a ridge high above the Kali Gandaki Valley, Jharkot enjoys a spectacular setting beneath the towering peaks of the Dhaulagiri massif.
Looking toward the Annapurna region, the scene shifts once again as green terraces give way to a spectacular wall of snow-covered peaks, glaciers, and rugged Himalayan ridges.
The large monastery overlooking the village in the previous photograph is Jharkot Monastery, one of Mustang’s oldest and most important Buddhist sites.
With its centuries-old mud-brick houses, narrow alleys, and fortified appearance, Jharkot remains one of the most atmospheric traditional villages in Mustang.
Jarkot surroundings
One of the best ways to discover Jharkot is to wander through the cultivated terraces surrounding the village, where agriculture has shaped the landscape for centuries.
A walk through the fields may also bring you face to face with the famous Mustang horses, a hardy mountain breed that takes its name from the region itself
Walking through the fields around Jharkot also offers a glimpse into the daily routines that continue to shape life in Mustang, where farming and livestock remain central to the local economy.
As the day draws to a close, herds returning from the surrounding pastures fill the trails with glowing dust, creating timeless scenes bathed in the golden light of sunset.
The fields surrounding Jharkot can become equally magical when dramatic skies combine with fleeting bursts of sunlight, creating an ever-changing play of light across the landscape.
As the sun continues to disappear behind the mountains, it is well worth lingering around for a few more shots—and in a village like Jharkot, there is not much competition for evening entertainment anyway. 😄
Wake up for the Himalayas
The best light of the day often arrives before sunrise, when the peaks surrounding Jharkot slowly emerge from the darkness under the soft colors of dawn.
At dawn, looking south from Jharkot, the snow-covered summit of Nilgiri Himal emerges above the clouds, while the setting moon lingers in the pale morning sky.
Looking west toward the Dhaulagiri Himal, all that remains is to watch the mountains slowly awaken, as the soft colors of twilight give way to the first golden light touching the highest peaks.
As the number of images in this section may suggest, I completely fell in love with Jharkot, a place where dramatic Himalayan scenery and traditional village life come together beautifully.
Muktinat
After a short drive up from Jharkot, Muktinath reveals itself in a magnificent setting beneath the Annapurna range, with sweeping views across the valley and a bird’s-eye perspective over Jharkot far below.
The contrast between vibrant green terraces, colorful arid hills, and the snow-covered peaks of the Dhaulagiri Himal creates one of the most striking landscapes anywhere in Mustang.
Seen from above, the terraces around Muktinath resemble a giant patchwork quilt, showcasing centuries of agricultural ingenuity that have allowed local communities to cultivate barley, buckwheat, potatoes, and vegetables in one of Nepal’s driest high-altitude environments.
The fertile terraces below Muktinath create a striking contrast with the arid landscapes of Mustang and the snow-covered peaks of the Himalaya beyond
Surrounded by Himalayan Giants
One of Muktinath’s greatest assets is the remarkable, mind-blowing panorama it offers, with some of the highest mountains on Earth visible in nearly every direction.
Surrounding Muktinath are both the Dhaulagiri and Annapurna mountain systems, home to several of the highest peaks on Earth and separated by the Kali Gandaki, one of the world’s deepest valleys.
From the soft colors of dawn to the deep blue night skies and the warm light of sunset, constantly changing clouds and weather ensure that no two views of the mountains are ever quite the same.
The contrast between Mustang’s arid highlands and the snow-covered giants rising above them creates some of the most dramatic landscapes in the entire Himalayas.
Muktinath temple
Perched at an altitude of nearly 3,800 meters (12,470 ft), Muktinath Temple is one of Nepal’s most important pilgrimage sites, revered by both Hindus and Buddhists for its unique spiritual significance.
The Ascent
The seemingly endless staircase leading from the village to the temple can feel particularly demanding at nearly 3,800 meters (12,470 ft). While some pilgrims embrace the climb as an important part of their spiritual journey, others prefer to make the ascent on horseback 😅.
Some strategic breathing breaks during the ascent also provide excellent opportunities to interact with fellow pilgrims—and perhaps pretend that the conversation, rather than the altitude, is the real reason for stopping. 😄
The path to Muktinath attracts a remarkably diverse mix of visitors, from Nepali devotees to pilgrims from across India, reflecting the temple’s unique importance in both Hindu and Buddhist traditions.
The Sacred Waters
One of the most important rituals at Muktinath is passing beneath the 108 sacred water spouts that surround the temple, a symbolic act of purification believed to cleanse past sins and bring spiritual merit.
Fed by icy Himalayan waters, the experience can be particularly challenging at nearly 3,800 meters (12,470 ft)
The number 108 holds deep spiritual significance in both Hinduism and Buddhism, representing completeness and enlightenment.
For some pilgrims, the ritual continues after the water spouts with a full immersion in the temple’s sacred pools, completing the important act of purification before offering prayers.
Despite the cold, many devotees consider the experience an essential part of their pilgrimage, believing the sacred waters help cleanse both body and spirit before entering the temple.
The Sakyamuni Buddha Statue
The Sakyamuni Buddha statue commemorates Siddhartha Gautama, the historical Buddha whose teachings gave birth to Buddhism, and remains one of the most important spiritual landmarks within the Muktinath temple complex.
With the snow-covered Himalayas rising behind it, this statue became one of my favorite photography spots of the entire Nepal trip, combining spirituality, culture, and breathtaking mountain scenery in a single frame.
To capture the clear Himalayan backdrop seen in these photographs, I actually had to climb the staircase three separate times before the clouds finally cooperated—perhaps earning a little extra karma along the way for my persistence. 😄
Around Muktinath
Like Jharkot, some of Muktinath’s greatest rewards lie beyond the temple itself, where the surrounding fields, trails, and villages offer endless opportunities for photographers and travellers alike.
Even a sudden mountain rainstorm can become a photographic opportunity around Muktinath
As the rain continued to fall, a brilliant rainbow suddenly appeared across the valley, turning an already dramatic scene into something truly unforgettable.
A few hundred meters below Muktinath, a small pond offers beautiful reflections of traditional farmhouses and the surrounding Himalayan peaks, creating an unexpectedly peaceful corner of the valley.
A small pond near Muktinath reflects traditional village houses and the snow-covered peaks of the Himalaya surrounding Upper Mustang
The farmhouses seen in the previous images are home to families whose daily lives remain shaped by the harsh realities of a remote Himalayan region, under conditions that can be remarkably challenging by Western standards.
The Road Toward Tangbe
From Muktinath, the road north first retraces its steps back to Kagbeni, offering a second chance to admire these spectacular landscapes under a completely different light.
After passing the viewpoints north of Kagbeni described earlier, the road follows the Kali Gandaki Corridor, where stunning views alternate between the towering Nilgiri massif and the ever-changing shapes traced by the river across the broad valley floor.
Tangbe village
Tangbe offers a glimpse into traditional Mustang life, with its weathered mud-brick houses, stone walls, and daily routines shaped by centuries of adaptation to this harsh Himalayan environment.
As elsewhere throughout Mustang, religion is woven into everyday life, and rows of prayer wheels can be found even in the smallest villages such as Tangbe.
Below Tangbe, overlooking the Kali Gandaki River, stands a remarkable collection of ancient chortens that have watched over the valley and its travellers for centuries.
Weathered by time yet still standing proudly against the dramatic Mustang landscape, these sacred monuments offer a powerful reminder of the deep Buddhist heritage that has shaped the region for generations.
The Painted Landscapes of Upper Mustang
Beyond Tangbe, the journey enters some of the most spectacular landscapes in Upper Mustang, where vast high-altitude plateaus, colorful cliffs, and windswept valleys create scenery unlike anywhere else in Nepal.
From Chaile and Samar to Ghami, Dakmar, and the remote highlands leading toward Tsarang, this region offers an extraordinary succession of painted landscapes shaped by geology, altitude, and centuries of Himalayan isolation.
The locations referenced below should be seen only as a loose geographical guide, as in this part of Upper Mustang, the beauty lies less in specific landmarks than in the constantly changing landscapes found around virtually every bend in the road, broadly progressing from south to north.
Chaile
Near Chaile Bridge, the Kali Gandaki squeezes into a spectacular canyon flanked by immense cliffs and rock formations that feel more like the American Southwest than the Himalayas.
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From there, the road climbs in an endless succession of hairpin bends, winding its way through spectacular canyons carved into some of Upper Mustang’s most dramatic rock formations.
As the road gains altitude, you are rewarded with breathtaking views of Nilgiri North (7,061 m / 23,166 ft), whose towering ice-covered summit rises spectacularly above the arid landscapes of Mustang.
Samar and Syangboche areas
Continuing north toward Samar, the road crosses an increasingly spectacular landscape of colorful canyons, sculpted cliffs, and deeply eroded badlands.
As you continue along the winding 4×4 track, scenes of daily life with horse handlers contrast beautifully with the snow-covered Himalayan giants soaring above 7,000 meters in the distance.
In the Syanboche area, yaks graze peacefully above a landscape of winding roads, deep valleys, and endless layers of eroded hills stretching toward the horizon.
Nyi La Pass
As a useful landmark along the route, you will eventually reach Nyi La Pass, a high mountain pass at about 4,020 meters (13,190 ft) and one of the gateways to the Upper Mustang highlands.
Ghami area
After crossing Nyi La Pass, you enter the vast Ghami region, a land of winding roads, layered cliffs, and colorful eroded hills set against a backdrop of snow-covered Himalayan peaks.
The road then descends toward Ghami village under ever-changing light.
The Mustang Highlands
Before continuing toward Tsarang on the main route, an alternative track branches east across the remote Mustang Highlands, offering some of the most surreal and least-visited landscapes in the region.
In these remote highlands, the winding roads provide the composition, while the constantly changing light does the rest for photographers.
Even far from any village, colorful stupas emerge beside the road, standing as silent guardians over the vast landscapes of Upper Mustang.
And along this remote side road, the snow-covered Himalayan peaks are never far away, constantly reappearing above the rolling hills and high plateaus.
The Red Cliffs of Dakmar
The spectacular Red Cliffs of Dakmar are among the most iconic landscapes of Upper Mustang, their striking colors and surreal shapes creating a scene that feels more like another planet than the Himalayas.
Although known as the Red Cliffs of Dakmar, the landscape is actually a remarkable palette of oranges, golds, ochres, and greys, with the changing light constantly revealing new colors across the sculpted rock formations.
Scattered among the mineral-colored cliffs, centuries-old chortens seem almost absorbed into the landscape itself, blending human devotion with the timeless geology of Upper Mustang.
As you continue through Dakmar, you’ll eventually reach the ruins of the old royal palace, where herds of Mustang horses graze on green meadows at the foot of the region’s famous red cliffs.
After a long and bumpy journey through some of Upper Mustang’s most spectacular landscapes, Tsarang finally reveals itself in a magnificent panorama, welcoming you to your next destination.
Tsarang
Once the capital of Mustang before Lo Manthang rose to prominence, Tsarang remains one of the kingdom’s most fascinating settlements, where Buddhist heritage, royal history, and magnificent Himalayan landscapes come together in a remarkable setting.
The Thuben Shedrup Monastery
At the foot of the Annapurna range, Thubchen Shedrup Dhargyeling Monastery is one of Upper Mustang’s most important Buddhist monasteries, serving for centuries as a major religious and cultural center of the former kingdom.
A common sight around the monastery is local devotees slowly walking clockwise around the temple while spinning the prayer wheels, a simple act of devotion believed to accumulate merit and send prayers into the world.
Many residents perform this ritual several times a day, completing multiple laps around the monastery as part of a spiritual routine that has remained unchanged for generations.
Some devotees spend long periods performing full-body prostrations, slowly rising to their feet before lowering themselves completely to the ground again and again in an incredible act of devotion.
Wherever you look in Tsarang, the monastery remains the focal point, towering above a maze of traditional houses, ancient chortens, and fluttering prayer flags that reflect the village’s deep Buddhist heritage.
The Old Royal Palace
Perched on a hill above the village, the ruins of Tsarang’s old royal palace have watched over the Kingdom of Lo since the 14th century, when Tsarang was among its most important political and religious centers.
From the prayer-flag-covered ridge above the palace, sweeping views open across the monastery below and toward the snow-capped Annapurna range rising on the horizon.
Only from the air do you fully appreciate how isolated the palace once was, watching over a remote world of canyons, cliffs, and barren Himalayan highlands.
Tsarang landscapes
The landscapes around Tsarang are every bit as remarkable as its history, with vast rock formations and deeply eroded badlands stretching in every direction beneath the Himalayan sky.
A deep tributary canyon winds as well through the badlands below Tsarang, guiding the eye toward the distant Kali Gandaki Valley and the snow-capped Annapurna range beyond.
Of course, the towering peaks of the Annapurna range provide an unforgettable backdrop to Tsarang and rank among the village’s most spectacular natural attractions.
Yet one of Tsarang’s greatest strengths is that the scenery extends far beyond the Annapurnas, with spectacular views opening in almost every direction and constantly changing with the light throughout the day.
As in many villages across Upper Mustang, the people of Tsarang are another highlight, and photographing these encounters is often as rewarding as the landscapes themselves.
While many travelers focus solely on Lo Manthang, I hope these images encourage you to discover Tsarang as one of Upper Mustang’s true highlights 😊.
The Road to Lo Manthang
Driving toward Lo Manthang, you quickly gain a sense of the immense scale of Upper Mustang, where tiny vehicles seem almost insignificant beneath the gigantic cliffs lining the road.
Shungla Chorten
Midway between Tsarang and Lo Manthang, Shungla Chorten stands as a solitary Buddhist monument in the vast open landscapes of Upper Mustang, watched over by the snow-covered Himalayan giants beyond.
More than just a roadside landmark, Shungla Chorten is part of a living tradition, with travellers respectfully passing around it clockwise before continuing their journey to the ancient capital.
The Southern Approach to Lo Manthang
Continuing north toward Lo Manthang along the Kali Gandaki Corridor, you’ll cross vast lunar landscapes where pale badlands, eroded ridges, and mineral-colored hills stretch to the horizon.
And then, after days spent crossing the extraordinary landscapes of Upper Mustang, Lo Manthang finally emerges below you, marking the end of the journey and the arrival at the ancient capital of the Kingdom of Lo.
Lo Manthang
Founded in the 14th century, Lo Manthang flourished as a strategic trading town between Tibet and the Indian subcontinent, leaving behind a remarkable cultural legacy.
Surrounded by barren mountains and fertile fields, Lo Manthang rises from the desert-like landscapes of Upper Mustang as one of the Himalayas’ most remarkable walled cities.
The ancient streets of Lo Manthang are lined with centuries-old chortens, traditional mud-brick houses, and rooftops stacked with firewood, reflecting a way of life that has changed little over generations.
The narrow lanes of Lo Manthang are lined with remarkably well-preserved chortens, their colorful decorations offering a glimpse into the enduring Buddhist traditions of the ancient kingdom.
Many local residents still wear traditional clothing, adding to the timeless atmosphere of the city.
Although Lo Manthang is no longer the isolated city it once was, life continues at its own pace here, and sharing the narrow streets with a curious cow is still part of the experience.
Chhyode Gompa Monastery
For more than six centuries, the spiritual life of Lo Manthang has revolved around its monasteries, preserving traditions that have endured through generations in this remote Himalayan kingdom.
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At the heart of the walled city stands Chhyode Gompa, the principal monastery of Lo Manthang and one of the most important religious institutions in Upper Mustang.
Young monks can be seen throughout Chhyode Gompa, where boys from Mustang and neighboring Himalayan regions receive both a traditional monastic education and practical training in Buddhist rituals.
Many enter the monastery at a young age and spend years studying Buddhist philosophy, scriptures, chanting, meditation, and the Tibetan language under the guidance of senior monks.
Yet beyond their studies, the young monks are still children, often spending their free time playing football in the courtyards with a small wooden ball. ⚽😊
Tiji Festival preparations
The Tiji Festival is the most important cultural and religious celebration in Lo Manthang, taking place each year in late spring and preserving traditions that have been passed down for centuries in the former Kingdom of Lo.
Although our visit took place several weeks before the festival itself, as our journey was timed around the Buddha Birthday celebrations in Kathmandu, I was fortunate to witness the monks rehearsing for this remarkable event inside Chhyode Gompa.
During the festival, the dancers perform wearing elaborate masks and colorful costumes, but watching the rehearsals without them offered a rare opportunity to observe the expressions of the monks behind the performance.
Tiji, short for “Tenchi”, commemorates the victory of good over evil through the story of Dorje Jono, a deity who defeated a destructive demon threatening the people and lands of Mustang.
Over three days, masked dances, prayers, and rituals transform the ancient city into a vibrant celebration of faith, culture, and community, attracting pilgrims and visitors from across Nepal and beyond.
A chance encounter with these rehearsals became one of the most memorable moments of my time in Lo Manthang, offering an intimate glimpse into a tradition that few visitors have the opportunity to experience.
The Ever-Changing Landscapes of Lo Manthang
Around Lo Manthang, cultivated fields form an unexpected oasis amid the desert-like landscapes of Upper Mustang, while ever-changing light and dramatic skies continually reshape the colors of the surrounding mountains.
Standing above Lo Manthang, nearly 360-degree views unfold across the Himalayas, where towering snow-covered peaks rise above the barren landscapes, often emerging through the clouds.
Kingdom of Lo Guardians
Rising from the barren hills northwest of Lo Manthang, the ruins of ancient fortresses still watch over the valley, recalling a time when the Kingdom of Lo guarded its northern frontier and strategic trade routes.
Beneath the crumbling walls, herders and their goats still move across the desert plains, creating a timeless scene that links present-day Mustang with its distant past.
While shepherds still roam the valleys below, motorcycles now pass beneath these ancient strongholds, illustrating the gradual transformation of life in Upper Mustang.
On the way to the ancient fortresses, take time to visit Namgyal Monastery, spectacularly perched on a neighboring ridge amid the eroded cliffs and desert landscapes.
Chhoser Valley and Hidden Monasteries
Just north of Lo Manthang, the Chhoser Valley offers one of the most rewarding excursions in Upper Mustang, where dramatic landscapes, hidden monasteries, and centuries of history come together in a truly remarkable setting.
Following the Kali Gandaki corridor north of Lo Manthang, you’ll encounter small isolated villages surrounded by fertile fields, set against a backdrop of barren hills and distant Himalayan peaks.
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Aruond Nenyul area, the ever-changing clouds often reveal breathtaking views of the Nilgiri massif and other snow-covered Himalayan summits towering above the desert valleys.
As you approach the cave monasteries near Ghom, the bright white dry riverbed contrasts beautifully with the colorful rock formations and cave-filled cliffs that dominate the landscape.
Manjusthre Gumba
Before reaching the valley’s main monastery, make sure to stop at Manjusthre Gumba, a small but beautifully preserved temple whose colorful walls and prayer wheels stand in striking contrast to the barren cliffs surrounding Chhoser.
Set against the desert landscapes of Upper Mustang, it offers a peaceful glimpse into the region’s enduring Buddhist traditions and remains an active place of worship for the local community.
The warm smiles of local women working on traditional looms provide a reminder that, despite its remote location, the Chhoser Valley remains a living and vibrant community.
Lowo Nyiphug Namdrol Norbuling Monastery
You’ll then reach the final stop and northernmost point of this remarkable Mustang journey: the stunning Lowo Nyiphug Namdrol Norbuling Monastery, hidden among the cliffs of the Chhoser Valley.
Built around ancient cave sanctuaries carved into the cliffs, it remains one of the most distinctive religious sites in Upper Mustang and a fitting finale to this journey through the former Kingdom of Lo.
As this journey through Mustang comes to an end, its ancient kingdoms, hidden monasteries, and breathtaking Himalayan landscapes leave a lasting impression, revealing a land unlike any other in the world.
If you’re interested in discovering more of Nepal’s rich cultural heritage, be sure to read my companion article, Sacred Kathmandu: Temples, People and Ancient Cities
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Mustang Himalayas
NB: The website galleries showcase only a small selection of photographs from my journeys. All images featured in the article are also available as fine art prints or for licensing. Please contact me at marcturcan@shootplanet.com for further information.
